A week after the accident and my thoughts and emotions are
still jumbled. Writing a story about it
helped me to calmly relay most of the details, the retelling a part of a
healing process. It also allowed me to
offer a glimpse of life in Mozambique, told through the eyes of a
foreigner. To say it is difficult to
understand life here, let alone explain it, is like saying it is difficult to
split an atom. And, I think that understanding
different cultures and the significance of doing so is as important as splitting an atom.
It’s a tricky thing, inviting oneself to document and story-tell
about a place and people. My account is
my own, filtered through my own prejudices, fears, beliefs, imagination and experiences. Yet, I feel compelled to share this place and
these experiences. I do it as much for
me, to define my own world, as I do to offer others the opportunity to visit
these places with me. And, if the reader
so chooses, to consider themes that impact and shape our days, if not our
lives.
So, in trying to put last week’s accident into story form, I
committed a mistake. I wrote the scene
without providing the backdrop. It was
bound to happen. As I become habituated
to this place, ever so slowly and slightly, the unusual transforms to the usual, the uncommon to the common. The milieu seems a given and I assume the
reader and I are beginning from the same place.
Well, we all know what they say about assumptions.
My story about the accident elicited some strong
responses. Truly, it was a horrific and
tragic event. And, while I am not
defending the responses of the hit and run driver, or the vigilante crowd, it
is important to understand the context. And,
I think it also important to accept that the culture here is simply
different. And, with a deep exhale,
remove the judgement which leads to blame.
Better or worse? Sure there are
aspects of life here that could be improved.
And, certainly agencies, organizations, and people are trying. Do I believe in and appreciate democracy and
the benefits of our progressive society?
You betcha. And I also respect that it took our country a couple of
hundred years to get it established.
And, we still don’t have it quite right as seen with the recent events
in St. Louis. But it is a slippery slope
to decide for others what is best. And
it is even trickier to do it for others.
Good intentions can result in terribly complex results.
The remnants of colonial and
tribal life are easy to see and feel here.
A couple of hundred years of colonial oppression and conditioning
doesn’t just melt away. And, thousands
of years of tribal life is in the very earth itself and part of the fabric of
the people. What is left is a strange
mix, it seems to me. It is like an
unsolvable equation; the posit of the colonialists met with the solution of the
tribe. Or maybe it is the other way
around.
The tribes here in Africa were self-contained units. People shared territory, language and customs. Members didn’t have identity issues; they
knew who they were, where they belonged, what their roles were and how to
act. They also clearly knew the
consequences of their actions. The
colonialists came in, and to oversimplify, applied their own rules. The game changed and while the rules might
not have always been clear for the native inhabitants, what was clear is that
they were often at the brunt end of it all.
It wasn’t a system that worked in their favor.
Now, colonialism is formally gone and the country and people
are redefining themselves, having been at war with each other for over twenty
years. The country often fumbles with confusion and
unknowing as the nation learns to govern and grow itself. Colonialist descendants still remain, clearly
separated from the native Mozambicans. And, for those living in the hinterlands, life
has, in some regards, reverted, (and in some cases, remained), with the tribal
system; the system they know best, with all its clarity and simplicity, for
better or for worse.
Where there isn’t infrastructure and secure and trusted
systems, such as courts of law and policing, the tribes take justice into their
own hands. And, while it may seem
uncivilized, to do nothing, or to turn to the nothingness of law enforcement
that does not exist, this is truly uncivilized.
I wish there had been opportunity to provide care, or at
least respect for the body, the man in the accident. I wish that the driver had the opportunity
for a fair review by his peers. I wish
that the people in the van saw themselves as vital participants in their
society, and acted accordingly. But in a
place where so few have so much and so little is left for so many, life becomes
a recipe for harsh living. There isn’t
the luxury of shades of gray. Black and
white seems the attire here. At least
for now.
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